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Plenty
of Problems
A combination of factors causes this
tear-out
Linda Lockwood
Statewide Inspection
The Problem
I was hired by a
consumer to inspect her buckling
2¼-by- 3.8-by-random length factory
finished engineered oak floor.
The Procedure
The customer
purchased her flooring from a big
box store and hired an independent
installer to remove the existing
floor coverings and install 190
square feet of new wood. A few
months after installation, it began
to buckle. The installer inspected
the floor, made a relief cut and
removed three rows of boards from
the center of the floor.
The house was
a small bungalow at the Jersey Shore
built in the early ’50s. The
homeowner explained she turns the
heat or AC off when she’s at work or
on vacation. It was after a weeklong
summer vacation that she returned to
find the flooring buckled.
The Cause
The installer
removed three rows of boards through
the center of the living room and
kitchen. The exposed areas revealed
an existing felt-backed sheet vinyl
in the kitchen and outlines of
9-by-9-inch vinyl asbestos tile
(VAT) that had been removed by the
installer (VAT is common in these
homes). The relative humidity
measured 62 percent at 78 degrees
Fahrenheit. The wood’s moisture
content was measured with an
invasive probe meter measuring 10-11
percent on the surface of the
boards, and 12-14 percent on the
bottom. Concrete moisture readings
were 4-5 with a non-invasive
concrete meter. In the kitchen area,
I found the wood flooring glued
directly to the paper backing from
the old vinyl floor. The vinyl had
been installed directly to the
concrete over cutback adhesive. On
the back of the boards I found the
vinyl’s paper backing with cutback
adhesive on the underside of the
paper. Mold growth was present on
the paper backing, on the floor and
on the bottom of the boards. I
removed a few more boards from the
living room to find cutback adhesive
and an inconsistent spread of wood
adhesive on the back of the boards.
There were no moldings installed—the
wood flooring was installed net to
the walls and cabinets. The lack of
indoor climate control and high
concrete moisture resulted in
elevated moisture in the wood, which
caused expansion of the wood
flooring, which had no expansion
space. Because the wood was laid
into a bed of cutback adhesive and
vinyl paper backing, it was not
adhered to the concrete. A
combination of expansion and lack of
bond caused the wood to buckle off
the floor.
How to Fix the Floor
Unfortunately, this
floor could not be salvaged. To
prepare the subfloor for a new
glue-down installation, the cutback
adhesive and paper/felt backing must
be removed. The concrete requires
moisture testing and possible
remediation before installing a new
glue-down wood floor. Another option
would be to install a floating wood
floor over an approved moisture
retarder.
In the Future
First,
customers should receive maintenance
instructions and information
regarding proper climate control at
the point of sale. Second, the
industry standards and most flooring
manufacturers recommend a flat,
clean, dry and structurally sound
subfloor; this subfloor was not
clean or dry. Cutback adhesive is
not compatible with wood flooring
adhesives; it is necessary to remove
or encapsulate cutback residue
before installing a new floor.
Having lived
and worked in this area for over 30
years, I have no doubt the tile
removed from this house contained
asbestos. For safety’s sake, before
removing resilient or tile flooring,
the floor should always be tested
with an asbestos test kit (available
at home centers and hardware
stores). If asbestos is present,
removal instructions are available
from the Resilient Floor Covering
Institute at www.rfci.com.
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